By train to Bern and Europe’s highest station

From the Swiss Bundesstadt Bern, a train journey of about three hours takes you to the Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest train station at a whopping 3,454 metres above sea level. Along the way, you’ll pass medieval towns, shimmering mountain lakes, fairytale castles and panoramas that will leave you speechless. No wonder this route is among our absolute favourites. At the top, an eternally white world awaits – even in the middle of summer – overlooking a sea of snow stretching to the horizon.

From The Netherlands to Bern

At 10:27 our ICE train leaves Utrecht Centraal for Frankfurt, en route to the Swiss city of Bern. The first leg takes us via Cologne to Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof, where we have a tight transfer time of just 19 minutes. We take this risk, already knowing that more trains are leaving for Switzerland, including – two hours later – another direct train to Bern. But fortunately, our train runs punctually and we arrive in Frankfurt after a smooth four hour trip. We can catch our connection to Switzerland without stress.

The route through Germany includes some highlights. Starting in Cologne, where right next to the railway tracks looms Kölner Dom – a Gothic masterpiece nearly 160 metres high. Even from the train, this iconic cathedral is impressive, blackened by time and proudly watching over Köln Hauptbahnhof. Equally impressive is crossing the mighty wide Rhine, over the 410-metre-long Hohenzollernbrücke, famous for its thousands of love locks and fantastic views. After Cologne, the train races through the forested Westerwald and on arrival in Frankfurt you immediately see the skyline of gleaming skyscrapers, unique in Europe.

In Frankfurt, we board the ICE to Interlaken Ost, which takes us directly to Bern. But first it still takes us through the south-west of Germany, past the mountains of the Black Forest, with forests and hills that become increasingly spectacular as we travel south. Meanwhile, we enjoy a freshly tapped German beer in the ICE’s Bordbistro. It is relaxed travel: comfortable seats, wide views and a pleasant atmosphere on the train.

8.5 hours of train rushes by in no time and before we know it we are in Bern. Just before we enter the station, the track crosses the river Aare. A beautiful moment, overlooking the Altstadt, the orange roofs and the spire of the Bern Münster. In the background, we can see the snow-capped peaks of the Bernese Oberland. We can hardly imagine a more beautiful welcome to the city and region.

From Bern to Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest station:

One of the most beautiful routes in Switzerland starts in its capital, from Bern to the highest station in Europe:

Bern: medieval charm with Alpine panoramas

Bern is an unusual, well-organised ‘capital’ (or rather seat of the federal government in Switzerland, also called Bundesstadt) with medieval character. The historic inner city with wide streets, many churches and government buildings and kilometres of covered passages is a Unesco World Heritage Site and offers enough to keep you busy for 2 days. So Bern is not only our starting point for the train journey to Europe’s highest station, but a destination in itself that should definitely not be missed.

Art, science and Einstein

For art and culture lovers, there is plenty to discover. At the Museum für Kommunikation, you will experience interactive exhibitions on how people interact in the past and today – surprisingly fun, even for children. Art lovers can choose from the Zentrum Paul Klee, dedicated to the modern master, or the Kunstmuseum Bern with a rich collection from classical antiquity to contemporary art.

And then, of course, there is the Einstein Museum and Einstein Haus: this is where Albert Einstein lived from 1903 to 1905, the years when he developed his theory of relativity. You literally step inside his old flat, and learn more about his life, work and walks through Bern – a city where even geniuses came to rest.

Grand arrival in Thun

We take the regional train to Interlaken after two days in Bern and arrive in Thun after only a 20-minute ride, good for a first stop. Here, too, the arrival is impressive. Walking out through the station hall, you can see Thun Castle towering over the town on the left and the famous mountain trio of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau on the right, all three around 4,000 metres high. With the arrival of the railway in 1859, tourism took off and as many as 14 grand hotels nestled in the town and along the waterfront. When the line was extended to Interlaken years later, tourism shifted, but traces of this old grandeur can still be found and before you really head into the mountains, a stop in Thun is a must.

The highlight, literally and figuratively, is the medieval castle on Schlossberg mountain, a majestic landmark since the 12th century due to its four white towers, which can already be seen from afar. The keep – one of the best-preserved Romanesque residential towers in Switzerland – is still largely in its original state, with thick walls, narrow windows and wooden ceilings dating back almost 900 years. From the train station, it is only 10 minutes walking.

Along the Thuner See

From Thun, the train takes us up along the shores of Lake Thune, to Interlaken. For almost half an hour we are treated to amazing views over the lake, where the mist still hangs in layers over the water. Spiez is tucked between vineyards and water, with a charming old centre and a medieval lakeside castle. Perfect for a short walk or a cup of coffee with views of the snow-capped peaks getting closer and closer.

The surrounding mountain peaks slowly disappear from the clouds. You really don’t have to take the Bernina or Glacier Express in Switzerland for an unforgettable train ride; it is enjoyable almost everywhere, even on the ‘regular’ trains. One panorama train, by the way, we would like to mention, as Interlaken Ost is also the starting point of one of the most beautiful journeys through Switzerland: the GoldenPass Express. This more than 3-hour route goes via Zweisimmen to Montreux on Lake Geneva. Especially the descent to Montreux, between vineyards and with phenomenal views over the lake and the Swiss and French Alps, is unforgettable and also good to do as a day trip from Thun or Bern.

Via Interlaken to Brienz

Interlaken is sandwiched between Lake Thune and Lake Brienz and surrounded by mountains. This town is a tourist hotspot, but not without reason: it is the beating heart of the Bernese Oberland and an ideal base for adventurers and nature lovers. The outdoor possibilities here, both summer and winter, are unprecedented.

As train lovers, who travel another 20 minutes, along the northern shores of Lake Brienz to Brienz, for even more panoramic views to dream away at. Brienz station is idyllically situated on the turquoise blue waters of the lake. From the train here you transfer directly to a boat, canoe or hot tub at the Pirate Bay Nautical Centre. We opt for a floating pool filled with 38-degree water, powered sustainably by an electric motor, in the still chilly spring. A surreal experience; while the mist is still slowly lifting, we float delightfully on the lake, with mountain giants like the 2927-metre-high Schwarzhorn in the background, while trains crawl back and forth along the lake shores.

Highly recommended: from Interlaken, take a boat across the lake to the St. Beatus Höhlen. Hidden in a rock face above Lake Thune, these ancient stalactite caves are a mystical world full of stalactites, underground waterfalls and legends of a dragon that is said to have once lived here. The walk to the entrance – past bridges, waterfalls and viewpoints – is at least as fairytale-like.

To the highest station

The next day is the day. A trip we had been looking forward to for a long time. As we board the train to Grindelwald on track 2B in Interlaken Ost, the grey clouds make us feel gloomy, but the cheerful Zugbegleiter cheers us up. ‘Above, the sun shines much more often,’ he says optimistically. ‘When fog lingers in the valleys, Jungfraujoch station is usually above the Nebelgrenze anyway . Even if the Föhn blows, good views are almost guaranteed. Of course, we cannot promise good weather, but there is always ice and snow.’ For some non-European guests, this is reason enough to travel up. Our Zugbegleiter: ‘Some guests only know desert and sandstorms. They are bursting with adrenaline in this, for them, bizarre place. They come in Summer in flip-flops and stand shivering in the snow!’

Up in four stages

The classic train ride to Jungfraujoch is in four stages. The starting point is Interlaken Ost station, where you take the train to Lauterbrunnen or Grindelwald. In both places, you can change trains to Kleine Scheidegg station. Then there’s another change, on the shuttle train to Eigergletscher. There, the rack railway starts the last more than 1,000 metres up through the tunnel to Jungfraujoch station. The total journey time from Interlaken Ost to Jungfraujoch takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes, but it seems much faster, because (except in the tunnel, of course) you are constantly engulfed by fascinating views. Since 2020, you can also take the Eiger-Express cable car up at Grindelwald Terminal station, which takes you to Eigergletscher station in just 15 minutes. If you take the cable car, you save 45 minutes and a change at Kleine Scheidegg.

Famous and infamous

On the train from Grindelwald towards Kleine Scheidegg station, we have a great view of the Eiger Nordwand, which is getting ever more menacingly close. At over 1,800 metres, this infamous mountainside is one of the great north walls of the Alps. The climbing routes over this wall are among the longest and most challenging in the area, with constant danger of falling rocks and avalanches. The Eiger Nordwand is therefore especially known for its dramatic (attempted) climbs: more than 70 people have already lost their lives here in duelling with the murderously steep north wall. The heroic climbs also inspired countless filmmakers and writers.

Construction

The three peaks of the Eiger (3970m), Mönch (4107m) and Jungfrau (4158m) stand fraternally side by side and have always fascinated, and not only poets and painters. For years the desire had been nurtured to open up the trio with cable cars and in 1896 the time had come: construction began with the first pile for the section between Kleine Scheidegg and Eigergletscher, just 2 km which was put into operation after more than two years of laborious manual work. Only in 1912 did the first train tuff through the 7 km tunnel through the Eiger Nordwand to Jungfraujoch station. Already during construction, tickets were sold to finance the construction.

Swiss entrepreneur Alfred Guyer-Zeller, initiator of the project, had foresight during construction and already built his own hydropower plant at the time. It now generates all electricity for the trains in summer. Energy from braking trains is also used.

Direction Eiger Glacier

At Kleine Scheidegg, trains from both Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen arrive. Here we see the red boxcars heading towards Eigergletscher station disappear in a sea of snow, plodding along like a caterpillar getting smaller and smaller. A fascinating sight, with skiers in the foreground and the looming gaze of the Eiger Nordwand. As we bob upwards ourselves a little later, we see the remains of the settlements where the three hundred mostly Italian tunnellers lived. They took 14 years to build the 7km tunnel to Jungfraujoch, which we will enter later. It was not harmless: thirty construction workers lost their lives, some particularly young, due to accidents or lung diseases because of the altitude.

Eismeer station

From Eigergletscher station, we drive no less than 25 minutes through the dark. By now we are going from canton Bern to canton Valais and also pass the Wasserscheide (watershed). From here the mountain water flows to the Rhone and the Mediterranean, where from the other side the water still flows via the Aare and the Rhine to Rotterdam. In the tunnel, the train makes a stop at Eismeer station (3160m). A window has been created in the Eiger here and we get a few minutes to get off and, safely behind glass, admire the endless white mountain landscape.

Top of Europe

We arrive at Jungfraujoch station, right between the peaks of Mönch and Jungfrau. This is the highest train station on the continent, at 3454 metres above sea level. From the viewing platform, the view extends to the French Vosges on one side, while on the other, the Aletsch glacier lies at our feet. A moment to be silent. The glacier makes its way through the fascinating mountain world, bordered by four-thousanders. Unfortunately, the glacier of (now) 22 km long and 900 metres deep is shrinking significantly every year. The effects of climate change are visible. As promised by the Zugbegleiter: the weather, unlike in the valley, is beautiful. Even in bad weather, by the way, you can wander around here just fine. There is plenty to see and do around the station. Also admire the Eispalast, which mountain guides created in the 1930s, with several corridors and various ice artworks.

On the way back, we choose the route via Lauterbrunnen and winding downhill. ‘The Swiss are always very diplomatic,’ says an old woman next to us, ‘even when building railway lines. Because they wind up the mountain in such a way that there is always a view for everyone; sometimes for those on the left, sometimes on the right.’ But when the train pulls into Lauterbrunnen, you really have to sit on the left. There we see the magnificent Tal der 72 Wasserfälle, where in summer the meltwater from the Jungfrau Glacier gushes into the valley at up to 20,000 litres per second.

Practical

To Bern and beyond: We travelled with an Interrail Pass for 5 days within one month. Convenient, as the round trip to Switzerland is also included, and Interrail is also an inexpensive option for travelling around Bern Oberland and Switzerland. The pass is ideal for planning (longer) stopovers in, for example, Bern or Thun. You can also use your pass to travel for free on BLS Schiffahrt‘s cruise boats on the Thuner and Brienzersee lakes. Single trips to Bern or other destinations are best booked through Deutsche Bahn.

More about train travel to Switzerland.

Jungfraujoch: Tickets to Europe’s highest station are not cheap and are not included in your Interrail Pass. However, you do get a 25% discount with both an Interrail Pass and Swiss Travel Pass (in the case of the Interrail Pass, you do not have to use a travel day for this). There are also special offers for early birds.

Good to know: You can make this trip in all seasons, as there is always snow at Jungfraujoch station. If you travel in July or August, be sure to reserve a seat from Eigergletscher station.