Blowing off steam in the Harz Mountains

Snow-covered forests, medieval castles, and fairytale myths and legends about witches. The Harz, the northernmost mountain range in Germany, is a paradise for romantics and outdoor enthusiasts. And in winter, the white hills and crisp mountain air draw many visitors to the rugged, barren peak of the Brocken, the highest mountain in northern Germany, complete with its own train station.

Besides being a great destination for nature lovers, the Harz is also a fantastic place for trainspotters. The Harz Narrow Gauge Railways (HSB) is the largest narrow-gauge railway network in Germany, stretching over 85 miles. Every year, over a million passengers travel by steam train through the Harz, most of them heading to the magical Brocken.

This rail trip takes you back in time, passing through historic towns with half-timbered houses, castle parks and gardens, endless forests, and UNESCO World Heritage sites. Your Harry Potter-esque train adventure begins in Wernigerode, where you board the steam train toward the summit of the 1,141-metre-high Brocken.

The journey begins at Hannover Hauptbahnhof, where you transfer to the blue-and-yellow local train of the regional Erixx service. This train departs every hour towards Bad Harzburg, stopping at interesting towns like Hildesheim and Goslar along the way. But don’t skip Hannover! If you have the time, visit the world-famous Schloss Herrenhausen gardens, which are among the most beautiful in the world.

In Hildesheim, it’s just a 10-minute walk from the station to the city centre (you can leave your luggage in the lockers) where you’ll find two spectacular churches. The over 1,000-year-old Hildesheim Cathedral and St. Michael’s Church are both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. For a great view, you can also climb the 364 steps to the top of the gothic St. Andreas Church. From the 75-metre-high tower, the half-timbered houses surrounding the Market Square look like little toy houses, and on clear days, you can already spot the Brocken in the distance. Afterward, warm up with a heißer Schokotraum (a ‘hot chocolate dream’) in the cozy Antik Café, the oldest pancake house in the region, where you’ll step into a time machine: surrounded by antique items, you’ll feel as though you’ve entered a home from the 19th century Gründerzeit era.

After about an hour of leisurely travel, you arrive in Goslar, where you change trains to head to Wernigerode. Once, Goslar was a resting stop where travellers could recharge before venturing into the dark forests of the Harz Mountains, filled with witches and other dangers. Later, when silver, lead, copper, and zinc were mined in the Harz, the pockets of emperors, kings, and merchants were duly lined, and they built palaces and merchant houses in abundance. Much of this medieval wealth is still visible today. Unlike Hildesheim, Goslar’s historic centre (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) was miraculously spared during the war. Around the Market Square, you’ll find about 1,500 half-timbered houses, including the Siemens House (1693) (yes, from the Siemens family), one of the largest and best-preserved mansions in the city.

From Goslar, it’s just a half-hour train ride to Wernigerode. Shortly after departing, you pass through Vienenburg, the last stop before crossing the former East-West German border. Here you’ll find the oldest still-operating station in Germany, since 1840. The main building also houses a small café, the local library, and the regional railway museum (open on weekends). It’s said that during his visit in 1875, German Emperor Wilhelm I took a nap in the Kaisersaal (Emperor’s Hall) here. 

Wernigerode is an ideal base for exploring the Harz. The old town is a collection of colourful houses, which look even more beautiful with a dusting of white snow on their roofs. A highlight is the town hall, with its two pointed towers – considered by some to be one of the most beautiful in Europe. The town has frequently served as a backdrop for films and series, including the Hollywood production The Monuments Men.

One of the most famous legends in the Harz is Walpurgis Night. On the night of April 30th, the peak of the nearby Brocken transforms into a nocturnal gathering place for witches, who fly there on their broomsticks to practice black magic and devilish arts. Goethe made the legend famous worldwide in his most renowned work, Faust. In Wernigerode, it’s clear that these myths and legends from the dark forests still captivate the imagination. Shops, restaurants, and bars are named after them. For example, you can order a heksenbord (witch’s board) at the ‘Hexentreff’ or ‘Hexenkessel’ (Witch’s Meeting or Witch’s Cauldron), or enjoy a Hexen-Strietzel (witch’s pastry) at a bakery. Since last spring, Wernigerode even has a traffic light where a flying witch gives the green light and a red devil makes you stop.

The extravagant houses, as well as castles and fortresses, tell the tales of kings, knights, and wealthy merchants, including the fairytaleSchloss Wernigerode. From the Old Town, it’s a 20-minute walk to the castle. You can visit up to fifty rooms on various tours. In the chilling torture chamber, you’ll see how criminals were dealt with in the medieval times. Too creepy? From the castle terrace, you can enjoy a beautiful view of Wernigerode, the Harz, the Brocken, and the surrounding foothills. On stormy days, it can be wonderfully spooky here.

The town also boasts several museums with unique themes, including East German design, aviation, and a Harz museum. Train enthusiasts also shouldn’t miss a tour of the impressive workshop of the Harz narrow-gauge railway. Housed in a monumental hall built in 1926, standing 11 metres high and 70 metres long, the steam locomotives and carriages are carefully maintained here.

Railway romance

The steam train ride to the Brocken from Wernigerode takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes. At the HSB station, right next to Wernigerode Hauptbahnhof, you can still buy an old-fashioned card Edmondson railway ticket.

The steam locomotive, with its vintage red-and-white carriages, first rolls past four quaint stations, weaving through the houses and gardens of Wernigerode before beginning its steep ascent to the Brocken. Along the way, it slowly winds through the narrow bends of the Drang Valley, passing through the network’s only tunnel, before reaching the crossroads and station at Drei Annen Hohne. As the Brocken draws near, the snow deepens, and the wind sharpens, adding to the dramatic landscape.  

Throughout the journey, you may find yourself pinching your arm to make sure you’re not dreaming. Riding in a wooden carriage, hauled by a puffing steam locomotive, feels like stepping into a different era. And that’s precisely the magic of this ride: time seems to slow down. From the stations along the route to the scent of burning coal, the shrill steam whistle, the hissing engines, and the conductor manually punching your ticket—it all evokes a bygone time. Add to this the snow-covered landscape, with vast forests and valleys, occasionally interrupted by an enchanting castle, and you’ll understand why a winter trip through the Harz is unforgettable. Want to breathe in the crisp mountain air? Step onto the train’s balconies, where you can enjoy a refreshing breeze as the train moves at a leisurely 15 miles per hour.

The Brocken played a significant role as a Soviet spy station during the Cold War and remained a restricted military area until the 1990s. The summit, above the tree line, has an almost Icelandic climate, similar to the Alps at an altitude of 2,000 to 2,200 metres. Fierce gusts of wind or thick mist are not uncommon, only adding to the mystique of the ancient legends surrounding the mountain.  

But the true magic of the Brocken is experienced during a winter hike, when the landscape transforms into a winter wonderland, and the less appealing aspects of its past are covered by a delicate layer of snow. Snow is common here—there’s a snow blanket on the summit for 178 days each year—and it’s likely you’ll find yourself above the clouds. It’s an unforgettable experience. Just be prepared for the extreme cold at the summit, where brisk winds can create a wind chill of up to -42°C. Warm winter clothing is essential. At the top, you’ll find the ‘Brockenhaus’ visitor centre with some great exhibits, as well as the ‘Hexenflug’ café.

Back in the 21st century, you’ll discover that the Harz is crisscrossed with hiking routes. The network in winter is nearly as extensive as it is in the summer and autumn months. However, there’s a downside. You can’t help but notice that large areas of forest in the Harz have been ravaged by climate change, drought, monoculture, and bark beetles.

Still, the hike to the Brocken, especially in winter, remains a magical experience. Another recommended route is the 60-mile Harz Witches’ Trail, once voted the most beautiful hiking trail in Germany. It’s cold, wet, and misty as we walk through the forests. The rustling of the wind in the treetops feels eerie, only enhanced by the thought that this area once marked the border between East and West Germany. The path is also dotted with remnants from modern history, such as the Harz Border Trail, where you can still see border monuments and old watchtowers.

After your hike to the Brocken, head back to Wernigerode to experience the flavours of the Harz. In the heart of the Old Town, you’ll find the cozy, traditional Altwernigeröder Kartoffelhaus, where you can warm up with delicious potato-based dishes after your winter walk through the town.

Fancy a coffee and some cake? At Café Wiecker am Markt, pastry master Michael creates mouthwatering cakes and other sweet treats, including handmade chocolates, pralines, truffles, and specialities like Brocken-tips. Everything is delicious.

In Germany, coffee and cake at around 4 pm is a tradition you can enjoy any day, and perhaps it’s even more satisfying in the winter months. Alternatively, get into the right mood with a Harz pilsner from the Altenauer Brewery, the highest brewery in Northern Germany. There, beer is still handcrafted using local barley, hops, and mountain water from the Harz.

Photos: Guus Ferree, Bart Giepmans