Crossing Poland by Train

From the unexpectedly beautiful beaches along the Gulf of Gdańsk to the towering peaks of the Tatra Mountains, this train journey across Poland offers an impressive variety of both natural and urban beauty. Everywhere you look, traces of Poland’s important—and often tragic—role in European history are also visible.

Starting in Gdańsk with its Baltic Sea beaches, this scenic route takes you through the must-see cities of Warsaw and Kraków, all the way to the border with Slovakia in the Tatra Mountains. A blend of sea, mountains, and three fascinating cities, it’s a diverse journey, with comfortable Intercity trains offering fast, direct connections on each leg—plus delicious Polish food and attentive service along the way.

Although the Polish border is only about 45 miles from Berlin, we’ve rarely crossed it by train, despite there being a comfortable Intercity service connecting Berlin and Warsaw four times a day. We’re a little embarrassed to admit that we’ve probably looked too often to the west. But now, on a Thursday afternoon, we board the PKP Intercity train at Berlin Gesundbrunnen station, heading east to Gdańsk Główny on a nearly six-hour journey.

The train is modern, with both open-plan carriages and compartments. A standout feature is the dining car, also known as the Wagon Restaurant, marked by a red stripe on the outside. It truly lives up to its name, offering seating for 36 guests on red velvet chairs. The menu includes classic Polish dishes like pierogi (dumplings), żurek (a traditional sour rye soup), and szarlotka (apple pie made with grated Polish apples, sugar, and cinnamon). Łomża beer, brewed by one of the last independent Polish breweries, is also available. Quality food on board is a hallmark of many Eastern European trains, and this adds an extra layer of enjoyment to the journey.

Lonely stations and crowned kings

After passing through the forests and fields of eastern Brandenburg, the city of Frankfurt an der Oder slowly comes into view. Located along the River Oder (Odra in Polish), which for 100 miles forms the German-Polish border, the city has been divided since 1945. The eastern part of the city is called Słubice, with the bridge serving as a key crossing point. From our train window, we catch sight of the border, marked by a post bearing the German tricolour. We sip our coffee and put on the song “Frankfurt Oder” by the German band Bosse on Spotify.

On the Polish side, we soon enter the Wielkopolska region, meaning “Greater Poland.” This is where the Polish state was founded in the Middle Ages, and the area is rich in historical landmarks—castles, palaces, and industrial heritage in abundance. Along the way, we see plenty of small, lonely stations with empty platforms.

Just as a sense of melancholy begins to set in, we arrive in Poznań. This student city was the first capital of Poland and is considered the birthplace of the Polish state. You can find the oldest cathedral in the country here, once the site of Polish royal coronations. There’s a brief moment of hesitation: should we get off? Poznań is known for its colourful Old Market Square, one of the most beautiful squares in Europe, just a ten-minute walk from the station. We stay on board, but from the train, we catch a last glimpse of the Town Hall, with the two iron goats in the clock tower butting heads at noon.

Gdańsk, a vibrant Hanseatic city

As we roll into Gdańsk after six hours of travel, nearly every seat in the dining car is still occupied. But as we arrive at Gdańsk Główny, it suddenly empties out. The station itself is a true railway cathedral in Neo-Renaissance style. Like much of the old town, the building was destroyed at the end of World War II but has since been meticulously rebuilt in its original style. Just a fifteen-minute walk away is the Golden Gate, at the start of Ulica Długa (Long Street). The beautifully restored old town stretches out before you, evoking the heyday of the Hanseatic League, when Gdańsk was the most important trading hub in Central Europe. Along Ulica Długa and Długi Targ (Long Market) to the banks of the Motława River, remnants of the city’s wealth are still evident. Lively cafés, bars, and terraces line the streets against a backdrop of historic buildings from the Hanseatic era. Mata Sztuka is the best cocktail bar in town, and for a beautiful view, head to the rooftop bar, High Five.

Europe’s largest war museum

Gdańsk is deeply intertwined with European history. Just north of the city, on the Westerplatte Peninsula, the first battle of World War II took place on September 1, 1939, when the German Wehrmacht launched an attack from the ship Schleswig-Holstein. We take a bus past some impressive, abandoned shipyards to a granite monument, crumbling bunkers, and an old Polish command post. The city is home to the Museum of the Second World War (Muzeum II Wojny Światowej), the largest war museum in Europe. Praised for its remarkable collection, the museum has also faced criticism. Under the influence of the right-wing and populist Law and Justice party (PiS), there is said to be too much focus on Polish patriotism during the war. Judge for yourself—this museum is striking both inside and out, with a building designed to resemble a massive shell explosion.

The heroism of Solidarity

Gdańsk is also the birthplace of Solidarność, or Solidarity, the workers’ and democracy movement that helped bring about the fall of the communist government at the end of the Cold War. In 1980, the charismatic leader Lech Wałęsa rallied 17,000 workers to fight for better human rights in communist Poland. The 21 demands, handwritten by the strikers on yellow wooden boards, have since become UNESCO World Heritage and are displayed at the impressive European Solidarity Centre. The permanent exhibition, Roads to Freedom, showcases thousands of photos, films, and objects related to the heroic workers’ struggle. The building, clad in rusty steel panels, features a platform offering a view of the shipyards where the protests began.

Time to shift gears! Thankfully, the beach is just around the corner. Regional trains connect Gdańsk Główny with the seaside resort of Sopot (a 12-minute journey, with trains running every ten minutes), once a retreat for the wealthy and the royal family. The exclusive atmosphere still lingers, but it is now open to all. Sopot boasts a beautiful four-mile-long sandy beach and a vast wooden pier. At 515 metres in length, it’s the longest wooden pier in Europe. A perfect place to catch your breath before the train to Warsaw departs.

Three thousand knights

Modern Intercity trains whisk you from Gdańsk to Warsaw in just 2.5 hours, with stops along the way. Shortly after Tczew, the train crosses the Vistula (Wisła in Polish), Poland’s longest and most important river, stretching 650 miles. Regarded as a symbol of Polish culture, history, and national identity, the Vistula is often referred to as Kraj nad Wisłą(Vistula Land), a term synonymous with Poland itself.

An unforgettable sight comes just before the train enters Malbork. On the right, the enormous medieval castle emerges, clearly visible from the window. This monumental fortress on the Nogat River is a prime example of Teutonic architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Made from 4.5 million bricks, it’s the largest brick building in the world. Construction began in the 13th century and continued into the early 15th century—an extraordinary feat of medieval engineering.

As we pass by, we imagine the more than three thousand knights who once inhabited this fortress, creating a city within a city. The castle is just a fifteen-minute walk from either the Malbork or Malbork Kałdowo stations. Trust us—take the time to get off the train; it’s definitely worth it.

Warsaw, a blend of styles

Before our train pulls into Warszawa Centralna, it makes a stop on the eastern side of the river at Warszawa Wschodnia station, located in the Praga district, once a stronghold of the Communist era in the heart of the city. Stepping off the train, we find ourselves in front of the towering Stalinist Palace of Culture and Science, an unmistakable symbol of post-war Warsaw. This monumental building houses an observation deck, a cinema, a theatre, and several museums. It’s also home to trendy spots like the Kulturalna and Bar Studio, popular with artists, art lovers, and students. Time for a beer.

Unlike other Polish cities, Warsaw’s city centre wasn’t built around a traditional market square. Instead, the city showcases an eclectic mix of architectural styles, from reconstructed medieval Gothic to communist-era concrete, as well as futuristic glass and steel. Most of the city’s landmarks are concentrated in Śródmieście, the district where the central station is also located. 

Wounded, battered and resurrected

Warsaw endured near-total destruction during World War II. Over seven hundred thousand residents did not survive the war—almost half of the city’s population. The other half was either forcibly evacuated or fled. Only ten percent of the original population remained amid the ruins of the city. Walking through the city centre, we come across markers indicating the boundaries of the Jewish ghetto, embedded in the pavement, much like the Berlin Wall. This ghetto, the largest established by the Germans, was surrounded by a three-metre-high stone wall and had a perimeter of 10 miles. A new museum will open soon in a former children’s hospital, dedicated to the story of the Jewish ghetto. It is already a subject of controversy, with historians accusing the former PiS government of downplaying the history of the Holocaust and Polish anti-Semitism. The Warsaw Rising Museum offers a different perspective, telling the story of nearly twenty thousand Polish soldiers who fought the German occupiers in 1944, the largest armed resistance movement in occupied Europe.

Strolling through Stare Miasto

Despite all the pain of the past, Warsaw is a young, dynamic, and vibrant city. From the Royal Castle, we stroll through the streets of Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat (parts of the “Royal Route”) toward the narrow streets and squares of the Stare Miasto (Old Town). The historic old town has a charming and cozy atmosphere, even though the terraces and restaurants cater mostly to tourists. The locals prefer to meet by the banks of the Vistula, like at Bulwary or along the wild riverbanks on the other side. New friendships are easily formed here, and we’re serenaded by a street musician. The music is beautiful—world-famous, even—and by a former resident of the city: Frédéric Chopin. 

From Warsaw, fast trains depart every hour to Kraków, the former capital of Poland and once the base of the Polish kings. This magical city is rich in cultural heritage, so it’s no surprise that Kraków is the country’s most popular tourist destination. Having been here before, we’re staying for just one night, visiting Kazimierz, the former Jewish quarter. This vibrant neighbourhood is filled with restaurants and cafés, making it the perfect place to sample a variety of Polish drinks and dishes, such as fried cheese with berry curry or vodka with berry liqueur.

The Tatras, a UNESCO biosphere reserve

The final leg of this journey spans about 60 miles, ending at one of Poland’s most iconic stations: Zakopane. But we’re not there yet.

The train moves slowly, the pace deliberately relaxed. We’re traveling on a single track, and every so often, we wonder if it might be time for some maintenance on this line.

At Chabówka, we switch direction—a 20-minute stop, perfect for stretching our legs. The landscape grows progressively greener, and before long, the Tatras come into view.

The Tatra Mountains, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, lie on the border between Poland and Slovakia, forming part of the Carpathian range. With its sharp peaks, rocky cliffs, and crystal-clear, icy lakes, this landscape is one of Europe’s most impressive natural and mountainous regions. Stretching for about 40 miles, the massif creates a natural boundary between Poland to the north and Slovakia to the south. With a bit of luck, you might even spot a brown bear, wolf, or lynx in these rugged wilds.

After more than 2.5 hours, the train arrives in Zakopane. Hikers and families with children disembark, and the train empties in an instant. Zakopane sits at the foot of the iconic Giewont mountain. The town is famous for its beautiful wooden villas, which you’ll encounter as soon as you walk from the station toward the city centre. Some of these villas have been converted into hotels or museums. One of the most stunning is Villa Koliba, home to the Zakopane Style Museum. In its various rooms, you’ll be transported back to the early 20th century.

Emerald waters, golden peaks

Due to its exceptional natural beauty and tranquility, Zakopane has long been favoured by Poland’s cultural elite. Painters, poets, writers, and composers such as Kornel Makuszynski, Witkacy, and Władysław Orkan flocked here for inspiration. Morskie Oko, or the “Eye of the Sea,” an emerald-green lake at nearly 1,400 metres above sea level and surrounded by forests, is a favourite destination for many Poles. Minibuses depart directly from the station to a car park in the mountains. From there, it’s another hour and a half on foot to reach Morskie Oko. For those who prefer not to walk, a horse-drawn carriage is waiting. Another stunning option is the cable car to Kasprowy Wierch, a mountain 1,987 metres high. This is one of the oldest working cable cars in Europe. Construction began in August 1935, and by March 1936, the first passengers were already on board. 

From the mountain station, it’s a quick hike to the ridge trail. This is our fifth day of travel, and we’ve arrived at our final destination, high in the Tatras, where Poland ends and Slovakia begins. The natural beauty is breathtaking, and the silence is almost overwhelming. The sun is setting, and we watch as the dramatic contours of mountain peaks and rock formations are bathed in a soft golden glow. From now on, we’ll be looking east more often.

Duration: At least 7 days, but feel free to take 10 days if you want to fully experience everything this journey has to offer.

Tickets: With a 7-day Interrail Pass within one month, you can travel unlimitedly, and the outbound and return journeys from your home country are included. Individual tickets might be cheaper but require more planning.