Bordered by miles of rugged coastline and unspoiled beaches, northwest Wales is a land of wild, poetic beauty. From ancient fortresses and Celtic shrines to mountain trails brimming with tales of legendary kings, the region feels worlds apart from the rest of Britain despite being just a short train ride away. To discover this distinctly Celtic corner of Europe, we hop on board the scenic Cambrian Coast Line which links charming fishing villages along the shores of Cardigan Bay with the breathtaking national parks nearby.
I think I’ve always been drawn to the untamed landscape of Wales. Besides its unique culture and language, there’s a mystical air to its wild, barren interior. But despite how remote it can feel in some parts, it’s surprisingly easy to get to by train and you can reach the mountains of Snowdonia National Park, known in Wales as Eryri, in a little over four hours from London, with just one change.
So on a warm July morning, I board an empty train at London Euston, excited to explore Wales once again. My destination for the morning is Birmingham International, just over an hour away and the closest starting point of the Cambrian Main Line, which ferries passengers westward towards the Welsh seaside. By chance, I find myself the only person in my carriage and am treated royally by the friendly train attendants who serve me a complimentary cooked breakfast, hot drinks, and juice—all part of my First Class Interrail ticket. After I finish my meal, the chef, who had perhaps been hoping for a busier morning, comes by to offer me a second course, which I politely decline.
Instead, I relax, pull out a map of my coastal route, and marvel at some of the tongue-twisting station names my train will be passing through. Llwyngwril. Dyffryn Ardudwy. Penrhyndeudraeth. Welsh place names are part of the country’s cultural distinctiveness, though they can prove a little tricky for those of us not born there to pronounce.
In Birmingham, I change trains and join a Cambrian Main Line train, and despite still being in the heart of England, our destination is in no doubt. “Diolch am deithio gyda Trafnidiaeth Cymru. Thank you for travelling with Transport for Wales.” Built between 1855 and 1869, the Cambrian Main Line is among Britain’s most scenic railways, crossing the Cambrian Mountains in central Wales before reaching the wide estuaries and golden sandy beaches of the western coast. Along the route, the line splits into two branches, forming the Cambrian Coast Line, connecting the towns of Pwllheli and Aberystwyth—my first stop.
The southernmost point on the Cambrian Coast Line, Aberystwyth is a historic university town overlooking Cardigan Bay with a picturesque seafront and promenade, as well as a lively Welsh culture fostered by the large student population. The town is a mix of old and new, urban and rural, with stately Victorian architecture, medieval castle ruins, and a 19th-century cliff railway, but also vegan cafes and sustainable vending machines that sell milk and creams from local family-run farms.
After walking along the cliffs and enjoying the sea views, I return to town, catch a bus from outside the railway station, and travel down the coast for about half an hour to Aberaeron, one of Wales’ most stylish harbour towns. Famous for dolphins, wildlife, and its vibrant grand houses painted in bright pastels and rainbow colours, Aberaeron is definitely worth a visit, even if it means deviating from the railway.
I take a leisurely stroll along the quay, watching the rising tide with seagulls riding the breaking waves. It’s late afternoon, and despite it being July, there’s a chill in the air and it begins to rain. Seeking refuge in an organic food shop, I browse their selection of local Welsh cheeses and, to my surprise, Welsh wines too. The owner chuckles when I admit I’d hoped for warmer temperatures. “This part of Wales isn’t known for its weather,” she says, offering me samples of locally distilled gins, including a surprisingly good seaweed-infused one, to fortify me before heading back outside.
After spending the night in Aberystwyth, I head to the station to start my journey along the Cambrian Coast Line. Trains run approximately every two hours, and my plan is to spend the day exploring different villages along the way. First stop: the quaint seaside village of Aberdyfi (or Aberdovey, if you’re English).
Aberdyfi lies on the northern banks of the Dyfi River, one of Wales’ most significant natural boundaries between three medieval regions: Gwynedd, Powys, and Deheubarth. For centuries, it served as a meeting place for Welsh leaders discussing matters of national importance. Owain Glyndŵr, Wales’ national hero and the last true Welshman to be named Prince of Wales, was even proclaimed prince on the banks of the Dyfi in 1404.
To reach the town from Aberystwyth without disturbing the Dyfi National Nature Reserve, the train veers inland, tracing the estuary to a point where the river narrows. You have to change trains here, at one of the most secluded and inaccessible railway stations in the country: Dovey Junction. Nestled amid mountains and the scenic River Dyfi, the station creates a genuine sense of isolation, and it even requires a solid 2 km walk to reach the nearest road.
Aberdyfi is a popular seaside town, drawing holidaymakers from across the country. At the station, a poster promoting sustainable travel catches my eye: “Forget the car, kids go free on our trains.” Despite the chilly 15-degree weather and a brisk wind, I do spot a few families at the beach, braving the cold in shorts and t-shirts, their children busy building sandcastles. I, on the other hand, opt to explore the lanes and colourful cottages above the main road, enjoying better and better views the higher I climb.
After a quick bite at one of the many seafront cafes, I hop on the next northbound train and settle in as we glide along the coast, the waves crashing just feet away from the tracks. The sun peeks out from behind the clouds and reveals a stunning view across the bay. We pass through Fairbourne, a small seaside village that made headlines in recent years due to an environmental crisis it’s facing. Positioned between mountains and the beach, Fairbourne is gradually succumbing to the waves as sea levels rise, and officials have warned that its residents may become the UK’s first ever climate change refugees.
High above the town, the peak of Cader Idris comes into view, a mountain in Snowdonia which boasts some fantastic trails and views. But beware: there is an old Welsh belief associated with the mountain that those who spend the night there to watch the sunrise in the morning may face dire consequences: death, insanity, or being transformed into a poet.
The striking Barmouth Bridge, which has stood for over 150 years, is one of the oldest railway viaducts still in use, carrying trains and pedestrians across its 860-metre span. It crosses the River Mawddach, providing a spectacular entrance to the town of Barmouth. In the 19th century, Barmouth thrived, thanks in part to its booming wool industry. Today, the town is known for its beaches, harbour, and scenic walking trails in the nearby hills. The Sailors’ Institute, a small zinc hut erected in 1890 next to the railway bridge, remains the sole surviving structure of its kind in Wales, providing shelter and comfort to sailors on their journeys.
The rugged mountains of Snowdonia create a striking backdrop to my journey, sometimes mirrored in the estuary waters from the train window. My destination now is Harlech Castle, constructed in 1290, and renowned across Wales for its historic seven-year siege that inspired the famous Welsh song, ‘Men of Harlech’, now an important part of Welsh culture. Wales boasts more castles per square mile than anywhere else in the world, bearing the indelible marks of 2,000 years of invasions from its neighbour. Perched on a hill, to reach the castle from the station, you have to walk up what was once widely considered the steepest street in the world. At the top, there’s a shop—the “shop at the top”—where I pause to catch my breath. From there it’s just a short, blissfully flat, stroll around the corner to the castle: a powerful building which stands shoulder to shoulder with the peaks that surround it.
For centuries, Harlech Castle witnessed frequent battles, sieges, and changes of hands—shifting between the English and the Welsh, royalists and republicans. Its final moment in the national spotlight came in the English Civil War in the 17th century, when it was the very last royalist stronghold in the country to fall.
Departing Harlech my train leaves late, which isn’t uncommon on this line because it is often just single-track, which causes wait times for oncoming trains. School has just ended for the day, and the train is filled with children heading home. The Cambrian Coast Line may offer great views for tourists like me, it’s a crucial social service for others for others, linking small communities to schools, hospitals, and other facilities found in larger towns.
For the night, I stay in a cosy wooden wagon at the excellent Hadfer Glamping B&B near Tremadog, a short distance from Porthmadog station. Operated by the friendly Jo and Gareth, Hadfer Glamping provides sustainable, solar-powered accommodation options, including luxury tents, western wagons, and even a converted horse box. Tucked away on the edge of Snowdonia, it is an exceptionally beautiful setting and an ideal starting point to explore the national park.
The next morning, after a comfortable night in my wagon, Gareth prepares breakfast in the converted cowshed. He then directs me to a spot on the road where I can hail the bus heading towards Beddgelert, one of the most delightfully picturesque villages in Snowdonia, if not the whole country. En route, I decide to hop off and join the Fisherman’s Path, a circular walking trail that takes you through ancient woodland and along a raging river up towards the village.
Beddgelert has the peculiar distinction of being one of the few places on Earth named after a dog, and one of the most popular activities here is to visit the dog’s grave. According to legend, a prince once entrusted his baby to his favourite dog, Gelert, while he went on a hunt. Upon his return, finding the cot overturned and the dog covered in blood, the prince hastily killed Gelert as an act of retribution. Soon after, he heard his baby’s cries and discovered the lifeless body of a wolf, which Gelert had killed. Realising that his dog had actually saved his child, the remorseful prince never smiled again and buried his dog honourably in a place known as Beddgelert, or ‘Gelert’s grave’.
Beddgelert also has countless fantastic hiking paths and boasts its fair share of gift shops, pubs, and cafes too. After exploring the area a while, including a visit to the impressive local copper mine, I take a bus to Porthmadog where I stroll along the bay towards Portmeirion, one of the strangest and most beautiful places in Wales.
It’s hard to describe Portmeiron, but one thing is certain—it’s iconic. Blending elements of a baroque Italian village with a rainbow fantasy land, all while nestled on a peninsula in north Wales, Portmeirion dazzles you with a kaleidoscope of colours and architectural styles. Conceived by architect Clough Williams-Ellis, it was built between 1925 and 1976 to showcase how a naturally beautiful location could be developed without spoiling it. Filled with whimsical houses, woodlands, a castle, follies, and grottos, Portmeirion feels more like a meticulously crafted stage set than an actual village and a visit here is quite surreal experience.
As the day winds down, I make a final stop along the Cambrian Coast Line at Criccieth to admire its clifftop castle, which has stood in ruins since 1403. Criccieth train station is adorned with artwork, local facts, and Welsh poems, while the flowerbeds are tended to by local volunteers through Transport for Wales’ ‘Adopt a Station’ scheme. Climbing the dunes behind the beach, I take in the panoramic view of Cardigan Bay and watch the occasional train coming in and out. A train driver notices me taking a photo and honks his horn in acknowledgment.
The scenic Cambrian Coast Line comes to an end a few stations west at Pwllheli, but your journey doesn’t have to end there. A bus ride away is Caernarfon, home to undoubtedly one of the UK’s most majestic castles but which also serves as the gateway to Snowdonia National Park and, in particular, to Mount Snowdon (or Yr Wyddfa in Welsh), the tallest point in the UK outside of the Scottish Highlands. For the most breathtaking views, I’d recommend taking the bus to Pen-y-Pass and taking the Pyg route up, past the deep blue glacial lakes, then descending via the Miner’s Track, but there are various routes catering to all fitness levels. Then, since Caernarfon doesn’t have a train station, you can easily take the bus to Bangor a little further north, where a direct train to “Llundain” Euston awaits you.
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