Trip of a lifetime on the Bernina Express

Switzerland’s oldest town, with a history of over 5000 years, boasts a picturesque old town full of winding alleys that are considered the best preserved in the country. Chur is the ideal starting point for both the Glacier Express and the Bernina Express.

Perched between two tunnels high above the deep Landwasser gorge, this remarkable piece of engineering is a landmark of the Rhaetian Railway. It’s hard to believe that it was built without any scaffolding and only two cranes between 1901 and 1902. For the best views, head to the back of the train and sit on the right-hand side (direction Tirano).

Dive into over 100 years of railway history at the Albula Railway Museum, right next to the station in Bergün. Learn more about the construction of this spectacular railway as well as the broader social and economic impact that the railways have had.

Shortly before reaching the Bernina Pass, the train skirts the edges of two beautiful yet very different lakes which mark an alpine water divide. While Lago Bianco is fed by milky glacial meltwater and flows southward into the Adriatic, a stone’s throw away the dark blue Lago Nero flows north and then eastward all the way to the Black Sea.  

This is the highest point of the line at 2253 m. A sense of tranquillity engulfs you as you take in the almost surreal landscape. But fret not, the Albergo Ospizio Bernina is a 10-minute walk away and the bar is always open! This area also marks the spot where German-speaking Switzerland ends and Italian becomes the dominant language.

This station, which also serves as a restaurant and hotel, provides a viewpoint over the beautiful Valposchiavo. In winter, the railway is this tiny settlement’s only connection to the outside world.

This arched viaduct – perhaps the most impressive structure along the route – was built to gain height quickly in a limited space. For the best photos, hang out of the window at the back of the train (right-hand side, direction Tirano).

Pulling into Tirano, the train feels more like a city tram – passing through narrow streets and a market square, past locals drinking their morning coffee. The town’s palm trees and Mediterranean flair signal that you’ve arrived in a whole other world.